by Meredith Kay
Maverick : nonconformist, free spirit, independent thinker, original, eccentric.
This is one of my favorite words. It embodies everything that I have tried to be, and now a restaurant after my own heart has debuted here in San Antonio bearing the name. Maverick Texas Brasserie is the latest addition to the culinary boom going on in Southtown. Just south of Cesar Chavez on South St. Mary’s Street, Maverick bursts on the scene with it’s own playful take on French inspired brasserie fare, and although you may not feel like you are sitting in a cozy French café, you will definitely feel the “amour” embodied in each and every dish.
The idea for Maverick comes to us from Peter Selig, who was instrumental in bringing Biga on the Banks, and Acenar!, to the top of the San Antonio dining scene. Along with his chef, and partner, Chris Carlson, the duo brings and incredible kitchen team, an innovative bar program, as well as a well-honed service staff to fill the void of French flavors here in San Antonio. However, when I first took a look at the menu at Maverick, it was the very first appetizer listed that got my full attention.
Several years ago, I travelled to the Burgundy region of France, and stayed in the city of Beaune. It is a quaint, walled city with wonderful cafes, charming churches, babbling brooks, and amazing wine. The Burgundy region is known for its wines, its high quality Charollais beef, and the quintessential French dish, escargot. However, there was one delicacy that I could not get enough of, and they were served in every café we encountered in the region. Gougères are light and fluffy cheese puffs, and it is impossible to only eat one. In fact, I usually managed to eat the entire basket, and sometimes a second order. I have never seen them on a menu in America, so I was very excited to try them at Maverick. They did not disappoint.
Upon entering Maverick, you’ll see the beautiful, long wooden bar, well appointed and softly lit, giving you the impression of sophistication immediately. Once you round the corner to enter the main dining room, Maverick’s integrity is solidified by the elegant décor of blond wood, cane back chairs and deep teal velvet banquettes. It is a beautiful dining room, and you will think that this is the extent of the restaurant, until you climb the steps into the modern, open-kitchen dining area, with its long communal table and metal accents. Just outside the doors marked, “Palms”, you’ll also find an inviting patio with Parisian bistro chairs and unique conversation tables made from large iron lids. Each of the distinctly different dining areas at Maverick segue perfectly into the next, and regardless of where you are seated, you will feel very comfortable, and as if you are about to experience something special.
On my first visit to Maverick, we were led through the elegant teal dining room and into the modern, open kitchen space. Here we sampled the gougères, along with the Calamari & Octopus, served with Calabrese peppers and roasted fingerling potatoes. The octopus was grilled perfectly, and the calamari was fried, which offered a great contrast of texture. We also tried the Butternut Squash soup, which was wonderful. It had just the right amount of cream without being too heavy.
Although there are several items on the dinner menu that I am eager to try, we couldn’t resist Maverick’s offering of a whole Crispy Duck, and we ordered it with a side of Red Onion & Port Sauce. The duck was lightly seasoned and true to its description, very crispy and tender. With a side order of the Sautéed Forest-Harvested Mushrooms, Double-Cooked Crispy Potato Fries, we had ourselves quite a feast.
Maverick has recently opened for lunch and brunch as well, and before the temperatures rose into the sweaty and sticky range, I was able to have lunch on the patio, on a particularly beautiful spring day. The lunch menu is not very extensive, which is a good thing, as it was hard enough to decide among the delicious salads and gourmet sandwiches. Primed with a couple of their outstanding cocktails, we elected to try their Plat du Jour, a not-so-traditional Chicken Paillard, served with sriracha glazed carrots, and a simple salad, served separately. In France, this dish is usually served over a bed of salad, so Maverick’s version plated alone with only a few carrots looked a bit naked. It could have used a bit more flavor, but the chicken was tender and satisfying. My boyfriend, Michael, opted for the Wood-Roasted Pork Sandwich served on a crusty baguette, with tangy German mustard, lettuce and tomato. The pork was very flavorful, and the French bread made me long for afternoons, like this one, in Paris, sitting in a café watching the people walk by.
The wine list at Maverick is carefully curated, and specializes in wines from France and California. You will also find a large selection of Texas beer on tap, as well a team of talented bartenders ready to craft a perfectly unique cocktail to match the seasons. Some of the standout cocktails include White Fang, a refreshing blend of white wine, ginger liqueur, Lillet Blanc, fresh berries and citrus. Another outstanding wine-based cocktail was Fade to Cab, which mixed bourbon with lemon, honey and Cabernet Sauvignon. Not to be missed is their signature cocktail, The Maverick, with Oloroso Sherry, scotch, Cynar, and garnished with orange peel. The cocktails are original, living up to the restaurant’s name, and the menu rivals any of the trendiest bars in town.
Maverick is definitely one of the best new restaurants to open in San Antonio this year, and that is quite a compliment as our culinary scene continues to grow. Our fair city is exploding with flavor, and we are rapidly becoming a foodie destination in our own right. It’s an exciting time to be hungry in San Antonio, and with trailblazing restaurants like Maverick Texas Brasserie, we will become a culinary force to be reckoned with for many years to come.